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Forum: General Discussions
Last Post: xiao1235
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New Zealand 2017 Election...
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13-09-2017, 02:14 PM
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Run the UniFi Controller ...
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16-07-2017, 03:07 PM
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Yeastar S-Series - Custom...
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08-07-2017, 11:53 AM
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LED Light Transformers / ...
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Posted by: xiao1235 - Yesterday, 10:47 PM - Forum: General Discussions - No Replies

Paint the function of protection: anti-corrosion, waterproof, anti-oil, chemical resistance, light, temperature and so on. Objects exposed to the atmosphere, by the oxygen, moisture and other erosion, resulting in metal corrosion, wood decay, cement weathering and other damage.white composite picket fences
Coating on the surface of the object to form a protective film, can prevent or delay the occurrence and development of these damage, so that the life of various materials to extend. Therefore, the protective effect is a major role in the coating. Decorative features: color, gloss, pattern and flatness. Different materials of the object coated with paint, can be colorful, colorful appearance, play a role in beautifying the human living environment, the human material life and spiritual life can not be ignored contribution.wood plastic composite decking chair
Other features: mark, anti-fouling, insulation and so on. For modern coatings, this effect is increasingly indicative of the importance of the first two effects. Some of the modern coating varieties can provide a variety of different special functions, such as: electrical insulation, conductive, shielding electromagnetic waves, anti-static and other effects; mold, sterilization, insecticide, anti-marine biological adhesion and other biochemical aspects of the rolerecycled plastic patio furniture
Resistance to light, heat, temperature and temperature mark, to prevent the role of thermal insulation, ablation and other thermal insulation; the role of reflected light, light, absorption and reflection of infrared, solar absorption, shielding radiation, marking color and other optical properties; , Self-lubricating, anti-cracking splash and other mechanical properties of the role; there are anti-noise, vibration, health disinfection, anti-condensation, anti-icing and other different effects. With the development of the national economy and the progress of science and technology, the coating will provide and enjoy all kinds of special features in various aspects.wood composites latest invention

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  New Zealand 2017 Election Poll
Posted by: admin - 13-09-2017, 02:14 PM - Forum: Public Polls - No Replies

Who will you be voting for in the coming 2017 Elections?

I have a hard time trusting/believing current polling statistics in the media so here is a public poll that, you the people, can anonymously vote on.

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  Yeastar S-Series - Custom System Prompts
Posted by: admin - 08-07-2017, 11:53 AM - Forum: Asterisk - No Replies

Lets clear up the confusion between "Custom Prompts" and "System Prompts".

Custom Prompts are the ones you can self-record/upload and assign to IVR and Queues like Welcome Announcements and Periodic Announcements.
That's all very well and pretty clear.

System Prompts are the default Language Prompts (English, English - British, English - Australian as examples) that are globally defined and are used for things like Queue Position Announcements, Hold Time, default Voicemail and Conference Greetings and prompts etc.

Most people are comfortable using the available System Prompt Languages for their Language or Region.
However, there may be a point where neither the American, British or Australian English voices available from Yeastar may really suite you (IE: we require New Zealand English which is very different to the "other" English regions).
On top of that, you can spend hours recording Custom Prompts but callers will still complain that they don't like the American Lady's voice which suddenly pops up while they are waiting in a Queue.

So, for the time being, you have only one choice and that is to record your own System Prompts.
Be warned that it is going to be a lot of work as there are many sound files that may need to be recorded (like "one", "two", "three" etc.)
If you are intent on pursuing to modify your own System Prompts then it's pretty simply (but time consuming).

- Log on to the PBX using FTP
- Browse to the System Prompt location which is f tp://x.x.x.x/ysapps/pbxcenter/var/lib/asterisk/sounds/ (where x.x.x.x is the IP Address of your PBX)
- You will see one or more language folders (IE: en, en_AU) where the System Prompt audio files are located - these are GSM audio files
- Record you own GSM audio files (the time-consuming part) and overwrite them - you will need to adhere to the GSM requirements of the PBX.

You may only have the requirement to record new Digits and Voicemail related files if you don't use features like conferencing.

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  Run the UniFi Controller as a Service
Posted by: admin - 22-06-2017, 05:55 PM - Forum: General Discussions - Replies (1)

Make sure you have Java Runtime installed.
Open a command prompt (preferably with Administrative privileges).

Change to the following folder by issuing this command:
cd "%UserProfile%\Ubiquiti UniFi\lib"

To install the Controller as a Service, issue this command:
java -jar ace.jar installsvc

Once done, open Services and start the "UniFi Controller" Service.

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  LED Light Transformers / Power Supplies
Posted by: admin - 05-06-2017, 04:23 PM - Forum: General Discussions - No Replies

This is a sort of follow up on LED lighting that I posted here: http://www.computersense.co.nz/forums/sh...php?tid=60 and here http://www.computersense.co.nz/forums/sh...hp?tid=133

My entire house is fitted with LED lighting.
Most lights are downlights with a varying wattage (intensities) and the number and wattage of lights varies throughout the rooms in the house.
All of the lights use the same collective 1 watt (1W) CRE LEDs.
Example: In the dining room I have four 7W downlights, in the lounge I have four 9W downlights and in the kitchen I have four 12W downlights.

Each of the lights came with its own transformer which were installed with them.

I have had a number of transformers blow in the past and I decided that it was time to spend some money on one single and high-quality transformer per room and wire up a surge arrester to each to reduce both cost (of consumption) and time spent on replacing them.

I discovered a fundamental flaw...
To explain this I have to explain the light's requirements.
For a single 12W light using 12 x 1W CRE LEDS requires a 32 volt (32V) transformer - each individual LED requires around 2.66 volts to operate at full brightness (12 x 2.66V = 32V).
The LED's in each light are wired in series meaning that their voltage requirement is collective to the number of LEDs. IE: A 7W light needs 19 volts, a 9W light needs 24 volts and a 12W light needs 32 volts.
I have a combination of all of these and this is where the BIG issue comes in.

Only 12 volt, 24 volt and 48 volt transformers are readily available that provide sufficient amperage (grunt) to drive multiple lights of the same wattage.
For those who are "switched-on", you see where this is going don't you?

Getting a transformer from your local store for 12 volt and 24 volt is pretty damn easy.
While my 24 volt (9W lights) are easy to get the other 7W (19 volt) and 12W (32 volt) transformers are pretty much non-existent unless you purchase them individually (again one per light) from eBay (be careful to guaranteed) get CE rated ones.

I am pretty much stumped and dumbfounded over the non-existent standards of power requirements from manufactures.
Why can't ALL manufactures set the standard at 12 volts?
All it takes is a little intelligence in wiring some of the LEDs in parallel instead of series and using a resistor or two to compensate for odd numbers?
I'll answer my own question shall I? Manufacturing costs!

To solve my own problem, I have ordered a bunch of decent quality 24 volt transformers and I am busy modifying each light (parallel, series, resistance) to work in this range.
While I personally have the expertise to do this (as well as replace single LEDs in the lights when they fail) I fear that others are going to get caught out unless they do their own research and ask the right questions from their suppliers.

I am suffering from my own naïve decisions and trying to resolve my own problems - hopefully you learn from my mistake and don't have to fall into the pit that I had fallen into...

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  Yeastar S-Series Queue Logging
Posted by: admin - 12-05-2017, 03:19 PM - Forum: Asterisk - No Replies

Queue Logging is not enabled in the S-Series by default.

You can manually modify the logger.conf by creating the logger_custom.conf in the directly /ysdisk/support/customcfg 

Login to the PBX with SSH and create the custom file as follows:

cd /ysdisk/support/customcfg
vi logger_custom.conf
input the content below,
queue_log = yes
save and apply the changes (or reboot the system).

After this custom configuration, you can find the queue_log file on the directory: /ysdisk/syslog/queue_log

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  Yeastar S-Series SSH/FTP Default Password
Posted by: admin - 10-05-2017, 12:21 PM - Forum: Asterisk - No Replies

Unfortunately this is not documented in easy-to-access places nor is in the User Manual.
Both SSH and FTP default username/password is "support/iyeastar"

Remember best practice to change the password.

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  LED Light Radio Interference (RFI/HF) - Solved
Posted by: admin - 08-11-2016, 05:25 PM - Forum: General Discussions - No Replies

Seems like a lot of people are suffering from interference caused by LED lighting.

In my situation, the interference was so bad that I could not use my Ham Radio when the LED Downlights in my downstairs Workshop were turned on.

I didn’t really concentrate on the LED Lights as such because I had bought a bunch of 9W and 12W LED Downlights from the same supplier and within a few weeks of each other.
I replaced ALL the lights in the house with these.
All lights are 12-volts and were installed with their supplied 220v/12v transformers.

It was ONLY when I turned on the Workshop lights downstairs (three of them) that the interference started.
The Workshop has its own Power Distribution Fuse Box and I was starting to suspect earthing issues.
Checks revealed no faults so I continued Googling the problem which many are suffering from.

Suggestions of using Ferrite RF Choke rings on both the LED Transformers (at various locations) and the Ham Radio equipment made little or zero difference (and I am angry at those who even suggest it).

Many suggested Google comments make mention of CE-marked Transformers – but because I am NOT in the USA and that CE does not apply to UK, Australia and New Zealand I didn’t think much of it.

Today I removed all three LED Downlights and their Transformers.
To my horror the first thing that I noticed was the rattling inside the Transformer Boxes when I shook them!

Immediately suspecting a “quality” issue I replaced all Transformers with other ones I had lying around that DIDN’T rattle!

PRESTO! Problem solved and NO more Interference – nada, zip, zero, zilch!

Here I share with you the photos of the bad (obvious from their “rattling” and foreign language) and the good (one marked CE and the other with more intellectual information but no CE mark).

The culprit:

Solved with:

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  CRT Superstar 6900N - BUSY on Channel 9
Posted by: admin - 19-10-2016, 06:56 PM - Forum: General Discussions - No Replies

I have been flicking through all the features of my new CRT Superstar 6900N and stumbled upon a serious issue affecting Emergency Calling on Channel 9!

Just when I thought I had all the features of this radio understood I stumbled upon (by pure accident) that I had the inability to make an Emergency Call on Channel 9 (27.065MHz).
The rig beeps loudly and displays BUSY

What if this is a REAL Emergency - what then?!

After much knob-twitching I figured out that the Squelch MUST be enabled BEFORE you can transmit - WTF is up with that!

Anyone know what the secret is to making an Emergency Call on Channel 9 is in case I am incapacitated and cannot instruct the rig user?

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  Uniden Bearcat 980SSB - MOSFET Failure and Fake RD16HHF1
Posted by: admin - 29-09-2016, 02:12 PM - Forum: Hardware - Manuals, Mods etc. - No Replies

I'll share my story with you so you don't make the same mistake that I did Smile

Out of the blue one day the TX on my rig just stopped - without any reason (so I thought).
With my limited knowledge of electronics and help from YouTube (thanx birdman3931ny) it was found that the Final MOSFET (RD16HHF1) had blown.
As I always do, I sourced some replacements from eBay - they were pretty cheap so I bought a bunch of them.

When they finally arrived I soldered in the new MOSFET in place and turned on the rig - the fuse immediately and aggressively popped.
Thinking it must have been a bad MOSFET in the bunch I replaced it again and upped the fuse rating by 1 amp - this time, not only did the fuse pop but so did the MOSFET Driver (Q206 - A1725 Transistor).

I ordered a bunch from Digikey and, while waiting the delivery, I stumbled upon some hints that the RD16HHF1 MOSFETs I got off eBay may have been fake.
Further research confirmed that I had been supplied a bunch of fake RD16HHF1.

You will notice the difference here between the real deal and the fakes. Tell-tale signs include the missing indented markings and the fact that the lettering on the fake RD16HHF1 was easily rubbed off.


Again, I hit eBay looking for the real deal. I found a supplier that had a picture of the real deal so I checked out another bunch of them.
After I completed the purchase I had this nagging suspicion so I asked the seller for a guarantee that they were original as described (yeh... I know... should have asked the question before checking out). His answer was that he did not know how to tell the difference between the real and fake and agreed to refund me.

I then bought some original RD16HHF1 from a UK supplier (albeit a bit more expensive but at least I had a guarantee).
When the MOSFETS and Transistors arrived I promptly replaced just the A1725 (Q206) Transistor and checked the drive voltage to the MOSFET gate.
Thanx to YouTube (again) it was brought to my attention that the drive voltage to the MOSFET was way too high (6 volts).
I turned down the drive voltage to 4.9 volts and soldered in a "real" MOSFET replacement. Problem solved and a big lesson learnt when purchasing electronic components from China.
You're asking yourself why I battle to get MOSFET and Transistor replacements? Well, not easy when you live in New Zealand and no one supplies them locally.

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